Almost 24 hours in an Island!!!

Travelogue: Trek to VasuGitti falls & Aqua Sports orientation-cum-Island camping
Dates: 13 - 14 March 2009

The temperature started to soar as the summer began to set in. It was more than 3 months since we had ventured out on a trek. This was the 13^th – 14^th week end of the March 2009. Although we wanted to - and raring to go, it was not to be as the sun had already blazed down upon the hilly planes of Karnataka. Most of the trekker’s paradises were either closed down owing to forest fire or regulated for entry owing to naxal hazards. With not much of regular choices insight, we decided eventually to plan a trek inside dense forests of the Western Ghats.

After lots of brain storming, we finally arrived at a consensus that we would trek into one of the most sacredly conserved and least explored parts of the Sharavathy Valley – near the world famous Jog falls! The week end would comprise of a day’s trek into the valley following the trail of the river and streams that adjoin river Sharavathy. Next day would be spent between the pristine backwaters of the Linganamakki reservoir – on a serene island to be precise!

We had booked 6 seats to Sagara near Shimoga with a private luxury bus operator. All 6 (Giri, Surya, Vishwesh and Murali) assembled near the majestic bus station. Vinay and Pradeep were to accompany them on behalf of NASA®. The bus took off from Bangalore at 11PM and headed towards Sagara. Sagara is a small but beautiful town - situated at approximately 320 Kms from Bangalore. We reached Sagara at 7:15 in the morning of 13-March. We all waited for the next bus to Kargal and in the process finished off our daily chores and morning beverages (Tea/ Coffee). A local specialty called kashaya is a popular and a healthy drink prepared from spices and medicinal herbs. Giri and friends certainly enjoyed hot sips of kashaya. As this drink is found only around this place, even we went for an additional cup of hot and refreshing kashaya. The next bus to Kargal arrived and we departed Sagara at 8 AM.

The travel from Sagara to Kargal is feast to anyone’s eyes! Right through the route, we would find clean asphalted roads which would cut through the plantations on either side. Paddy, beetle nut, plantains, pepper, cardamom, cashew and sugar cane fields decorated either sides of the road. Slowly as we begun to approach Kargal, the vegetation started to change. Estates and fields made way for tall, green and huge trees. Mahagony, ebony, teak and other lush green trees made dense appearance. The freshness of the air and the might of the Western Ghats breathed in a new found enthusiasm into us.

Kargal is at a distance of 30 Kms from Sagara and 8 Kms from Jog falls. Sitting on the hills of Western Ghats this place forms the connection between Sagara and the coastal town Bhatkala. It was 8:50 when we got down at Kargal and were whole heartedly received by Gangadhara and Narayana. These two would accompany us into the forest aiding us as route guides and cook. We completed out break fast at a local hotel. We consumed stomach full of Idlis, buns (again, a local delicacy in this part of the country), dosas and tasty vadas. With our stomachs full and eyes hungrier we set out for the trek into the valley.
The place to start our trek was 25 Kms inside the forest zone. As no public transport is available into those parts of the jungle, we hired a local transport and set off to the place. Passing through Hosagadde, we reached a place which would be the starting place for our trek. We changed our attire and dumped our baggage in the same vehicle which would wait for us until we would be back in the evening. We walked down a jeep track for about 200 meters and then encountered huge dense foliage of bushes and trees.

The ear piercing shrills of the crickets and tweeting calls of the birds welcomed us into the heart of the jungle. Soon we walked into the forest and the scorching sun was no where to be seen! There existed no track or path which meant that no people or civilization had ventured into this place earlier. Our excitement was on a rise as the temperature cooled off dramatically. The deciduous trees of the forest had shed their leaves so much that the entire floor of the forest was colored in crimson. We made our way, led by Narayana.

Following me was Giri, Surya, Murali and Vishwesh. Pradeep would invigilate being in the rear end. For Vishwesh and Murali it was the first trek and what a trek it turned out to be!
We started to descend immediately onto the valley. The ground was slippery - largely due to the dry leaves which covered the floor. As the wind blew, the scent of wild fragrances would occasionally spread out as we descended. The valley houses evergreen trees of great heights some even 200 year old! Some grew so tall that our efforts to spot the top of the tree went in vain. Huge climbers would often embrace the trees with their lasting hugs which hang through out the forests. Overall, hardly any sunbeam could make it onto the forest floor!

We trekked down for about ½ Km parching through the shrubs and trees and w hit upon a giant sequoia tree. Narayana tells us that this is one of the largest trees found in the surrounding with its trunk measuring up to 7.5 mts in circumference! We crossed the fallen trees, creeped through the shrubs and finally started to hear the flow of water. The presence of the stream was evident by its sound which appeared almost like small water fall and flowing stream. The howling of monkeys – hidden in the trees, the chirping of birds and buzzing noises of crickets started to fill the valley. Finally, after trekking carefully for around 40 minutes from the starting point, we came outside the foliage in face with a small water fall. This water fall – named ‘vasugitti’ is said to have been recently discovered and is about 75 feet in height. It falls from a cantilever boulder which also surprisingly supports a tree called kallu-basuri.

We all took some time off and spent our heartful of time in the fresh spring waters. The three staged water fall apart being a feast to the eyes also serves as a harboring and refreshing pit stop for the trekkers. We started to climb down the waterfall and move along the river. The river was on a low due to the approaching summer and allowed us to trek along its path. The flow of the river is filled with huge granite rocks which present themselves in various shapes, sizes and forms. With our tongues tied in amusement and our eyes filled with the scenic beauty, we moved for about 1.5 Kms without and eventuality. By the time we arrived at a confluence, it was 1:30 PM. We had lost track of our hunger being in midst of the jungle.

Narayana and Gangadhara called it the cooking spot and left us to play around the place. As we explored and took photographs of the valley, Gangadhara cooked wholesomely delicious rice-sambhar and even fried papads. We put ourselves busy in the flowing streams of pristine waters as we refreshed our body and mind. Soon, we continued trekking along the same route and encountered a huge tree which had fallen across the stream. Just there Narayana pointed out at the mud beside the stream which was wet.

We could see footprints and even snout marking made in the mud. A bear, which was here recently, had dipped itself in water before cleaning and drying in the muddy wallows of the shores. We could even see the pug marks and nail scratches it had done on the fallen tree.

Trekking through the same route we discovered a couple more streams and spent time watching birds and fishes there. It was 3:15 PM and the time was running out. We could hear the alarm bells of the tropical thunders occasionally. We decided to move out from the valley such that we could be in the island at the time of sunset. We started to ascend the valley and after an hour of rigorous ascent, we found ourselves in the open – out from the glorious cradle of the evergreen forests of Sharavathy!

The vehicle had been waiting for us and after resting under the bamboo shoots for sometime, we set off to the island! After traveling in the beautiful country roads for about an hour and a half, we arrived at a place called ‘hoodanahundi’ – a small hamlet in the back waters of Sharavathy. We alighted there and walked for about 100 meters to discover one of the most beautiful backwaters in Karnataka.

We had arrived in the island!

It was 5:45 PM and the sun had started his downward journey into the Arabian Sea! We thanked Narayana for having brought us here right in time. We enjoyed the dusky beauty in the cool breeze of the back waters. The shutterbugs (cameras!) operated incessantly and shot the scene until the sun finally got engulfed by the mighty sea.

Our camp in the island was ½ Km away from the shores. We picked up a coracle and 6 of us started to paddle them towards the camp site in the island. 20 minutes of paddling through the waters in the dimming lights and the nearing fire informed us that we arrived at the camp site. The island is connected to other continuous land masses which cover and area of about 85 sq. Kms. The sky was clear and in the dark we could witness millions of stars shimmering in the horizon.

The camp fire was set ablaze and we all formed a circle around the fire. Overjoyed by the beauty and the silence, we started to play games and when finally consumed sumptuous dinner prepared by Gangadhara. Tents were pitched and by 11 PM we all dozed off safely in our tents.

It was almost dark when we arrived at the island that day evening. Hence, could not visualize the actual vastness and the serenity of the place. The chirping birds woke us up. It was still dark outside and one could also see the moon hovering around the sky. The eastern skies were coming to life slowly as the sun rise started to set in. It was still 5:30 in the morning and we could witness a flurry of activity in the early morning skies. The crows, the herons, ibis, swallows, the river terns, pelicans and the distant cries of hornbills had already filled up the island. We freshened up at the island’s tree covers and arrived to witness the sunrise. It was not as clear as the previous day’s sunset. The clouds still covered up the struggling sun and the morning mist had limited our visibility to a ‘clear-round orange sun’.

The clock ticked 6:10 and lo! We had sighted the rising sun. The sun with all his energy and light was seen cutting through the screens of clouds and mist. The morning dew made their appearance basking on the grass blades. The sky was lit up and colored red! Sunrise in this part of the country is not just rare but an equally diverse sight to see.
And so, the rising sun kept on posing to our cameras. The back drop of a huge water body with half immersed tree stumps made an ideal postcard for photographers. We filled up our cameras with the pictures and started out on a exploration into the island.

The backwaters of Sharavathy are a result of the ‘Mahatma Gandhi Hydro electric Power Project’ conceived in the year 1948. The famous Linganamakki dam constructed across the mighty Sharavathy River engulfed more than 80 villages in the 100 sq. Km area. The flora and fauna had made way for the stored water and new habitats were formed. A variety of avian (Bird) population and aquatic mammals also evolved in the new found geography. The involvement and driving forces of the local population in the efforts of conservation and maintenance of the reserve forest finds highest mention. Each island formed is connected intermittently by shores which are again immersed in rainy season. We came back from exploration after an hour and were welcomed by hot ‘ragi dosas’ and ‘akki rottis’. The gravy prepared by ‘molagaayi bajji’ (Brinjals) was astounding. Eating our hearts out, we concluded our break fast with a hot cup of kashaya.
We had assembled near the shores of the backwaters. The instructors explained and demonstrated each and every equipment which would be used during the aqua sports.


The coracle, the dingy, rafts, paddles, kayaks and even the life savers were inducted into the team after detailed demonstration. The equipments and the vessels are of very good quality and with expert hands providing the instructions; we were ready to take a dip ourselves in the aquatic activities. We indulged in the activities with child like enthusiasm. Wore jackets and swam in waters. We floated and announced our arrival into the back waters of Sharavathy!

We took our turns on each of the vessel and enjoyed diving to the fullest from a tree right in the middle of water. Time passed without us giving a least damn to it! Finally, exhausted we came out of waters at 2 PM. Those 4 hours of treat in water is hardly matched by any other activity! We changed clothes and with heavy heads walked to have lunch. Delicious sambhar, rice, papads, payasa were consumed with even more enthusiasm. We ate like there is no tomorrow!
Post lunch we rested under the shady trees in the tranquility of the island. Above us was the sun blazing down with all his strengths and trying to dry up the earth. By 4:30 we had to bid goodbye to the island – easily the best I had seen and experienced. We crossed back to the nearby hamlet on the rafts. From there, we walked for about 2 Kms and waited for the bus to Sagara. At 6 PM, the bus arrived and we threw ourselves into the seats. I sparsely remember the next 1 hour journey to Sagara. I could remember seeing every one snoring and sleeping tight in the bus. We arrived at Sagara at 7:15 with cameras full of photos and our minds full of photographic memories.
What a day in island it was!!!...

Sincere Thanks to NASA(R): http://www.adventureacademy.org/

Summer Adventures

Sharavarhy Valley Trek

I was longing for a trek after the experience I had at KP. And it was in my wish list to go to a trek with a bunch of people who are unknown to me. Providence seemed to be on my side this time. I saw a post in the Bangalore Trekkers community in orkut by Santosh Kumar that there were a couple of places available to accompany him on a trek in the Sharavathy valley. It was a thursday and I replied to his post that I am interested. Bang came the reply!!.

He added me on Gtalk and so began my association with Santosh. Seeing his snaps on orkut http://www.orkut.co.in/Main#FullProfile.aspx?rl=pcb&uid=983688143883449387. I could make out that he was a nature freak like I am and my gut feeling told me that it will not be a bad decision to go on this trek. And indeed I will not regret my decision. The fact that it is a beautiful trek and the chance of meeting new people made my decision to go stronger by the minute. But the kind of person I am, always pushing decisions to the last minute until my rear is on fire, Santosh pinged me on Friday afternoon asking me my decision and told me that he will be booking a qualis if I am not coming. I jokingly asked him whether he is booking a bigger vehicle just for me (and thought to myself how in god's name did he come to know about my build??) I said yes, a decision that I will never regret taking.

It was decided that we will all meet at majestic at 10 PM.I called mom and told her that I will be going for a trek with a group of people whom I have not even met and know. Mom's reaction was quiet understandable. She kind of resigned to the fact that I have made up my mind and gave her ascent. Reached home at 9:30 and left for the trek at 9:45. I reached Majestic at 10:15 where I was told that a tempo traveler would be waiting for us.It sometimes happens that the first time you meet a person you cannot help liking that person and the reverse is also true. I liked Santosh, the first time I saw him. The bushy moustache and his joking eyes, you can actually see the twinkle in his eyes even though they are covered by glasses :-) made me feel that I knew this person since ages.

Getting into the bus I was introduced to my fellow trekkers and was surprised to know that I had two people from my company to accompany me.Coming to the people in the trek.We had Geetha and Shilpa from my company. When I first spoke to Geetha, I kind of got a feeling that she is a tom boy kind of a lady. Ready to take the bull by the horns, a thought which proved itself later. Shilpa was more of a timid lady. I could actually sense her fear and apprehension, always ready to get into the shell at the first smell of danger. Her voice was like a small bird chirping with fear. Next I was introduced to Pradeep, who accompanies Santosh on most of his treks. He is a constant chatterbox, loved his demeanor. You cant help but always laugh in his company. Then I was introduced to two westerners. I could not get both of their names in the first attempt. More on them later. There were three more people, Harish, his wife and his kid. More on them later.After the introductions, we left Bangalore having picked Jagadeesh on the way, another techie working in Accenture.The driver of the vehicle, I believe was out right sadistic. He wanted all of us to be awake along with him. Putting blaring kannada songs, driving like an ego-maniac, and constantly spitting outside the window. Phew!!! that was quiet a journey.

Reached Shimoga in record 5 hours. We freshened up in a lodge in Shimoga and got moving towards Sagar. We picked up our guide along with all our rations and headed towards the place where we would start our trek.We had an amazing breakfast at a local restaurant, filled our tummies up to the brim with Idlis, vadas and local buns (It is to be called buns even if you eat on buns, Queen's English has no followers here) It was here that I started talking to Laars, a German, who was on an Internship in India. We started discussing about the culture, our travels, his biking trip in Vietnam was awesome..!!

Finally 12 hours after leaving the concrete jungle, we reached the actual jungle. By god it was a jungle. Completely unexplored, the sun never touching the ground. The trees were towering all round us. It gave me an eerie feeling that the entire forest was keeping an eye on us. There was absolutely no trail on the ground. Had it not been for Narayana, our guide it would have been another season of LOST. Narayana, a moving GPS, was a former surveyor in the forest department. Extremely nimble footed, sprinting like a gazelle, always on the move and rattling the names of the trees, it was indeed amazing to move with him.

After an hour of trekking in the forest we hit the river bed. It was here on this bed that our remainder of the trek was to be.Ten minutes in to the trek on the river bed we had our first casualty. Lakshmi (Harish's wife) had a first fall on the boulder almost bringing me also on the ground. Pradeep tending to her wounds, we were on our feet again.What made this trek unique from the other treks that I have been is the relative obscurity of this place. It has not been pillaged by hordes of people and absence of plastic. Also it was a trek which was not steep, but it was very tricky. Tricky, because we always had to walk on boulders, some of which were loose and needed some guile to cross them. We walked on the river bed for another 30 mins, when we had our second casualty. This time it was Geetha. Geetha tried and succeeded in climbing a tree across the river, and it was during this adventure that a big thorn went parallel in her feet. I am very sure that it was causing her a lot of pain. It would have doubled when Pradeep and Jagadeesh started probing for the thorn, cutting her skin with a blade and finally pulling that thorn out of her feet. All this time, not even a sound came from her. In fact she was happily taking pics of the thorn all the time. Hats off to you Geetha!!!There was another casualty, but this continued through out the trek. It was Shilpa. She was on her first trek and this being tricky took a toll on her. Constantly slipping and falling, her confidence took a beating. But her never say die spirit was on full display as she got up each time she fell and continued the trek.

Lunch was a gala affair. Our lunch consisted of rice, sambhar and pickle. Thats it. We ate on the leaves that we plucked from the trees, sitting cross legged on a bark of a tree and gorging on the heaps of rice and sambhar. Wow!!! that was a lunch I will never forget. The sambhar was simply amazing. Cooked on a wooden fire added to the taste.Continuing on the river bed for another 2 hours, on the way climbing precarious ledges, going underneath barks of trees, getting scratched by the numerous thorns, we reached the place where we had to say good bye to the river bed and enter the forest again. This time it was a gentle climb for around 1.5 hrs to reach a clearing, where we all rested to catch a glimpse of the sunset.I love sunsets and sun rises. The sky will be always be vividly coloured, the yellows, the oranges, the blues, always looks like nature painted the sky with her full palette of paints.

After taking some nice snaps of the sunset and taking our group photo, we headed to the place where we were to spend our night.The place where we spent the night was a local tribal residence. We all sat on the courtyard, being treated to an amazing performance by Harish's kid. He demonstrated what in my time (when I was a kid) was though to be impossible to be performed by kids of his age. He was very agile with the digital camera, could rattle the names of the capitals of most countries and could perform yogic postures. All these at the command of his parents. Well, when I saw his performing to the commands of his parents, I could not help drawing a similarity between his acts and the acts of a monkey that does tricks at the commands of its master.I am not being critical of the kid's prowess, but I am critical of his parents. I felt that he was not at all like 4 year olds. His parent's constant glare was always on him. They were watching over him like eagles, least their son, learns something bad... I always feel that kids should always be their age and that itself will help in their grooming. I am afraid his parents did not let that happen to him. I think it is not even the parent's fault. The cut-throat competition that exists today, the parents will also be under tremendous pressure to ensure that their kids are the smartest of the lot, are into the brightest of the schools and all turn out into Einsteins, or Edisons, I pity them, not able to enjoy their childhoods like children his age are supposed to enjoy.

Well, after this theatrical performance, we all sat round the campfire. We were all given Kashaya, which is a herbal drink. It revitalises the body and was a drink fit for the gods. Sleeping on the backs, with the warmth of the camp fire and the starry sky above, I was fully at peace. Dinner, was another sumptuous meal, with rice, sambhar, chilli bajjis, and kheer. After such a heavy dinner we were all ready to hit the sack. Me and santosh decided to sleep in the open, under the starry sky. Well, this is one thing I will never be able to forget. The entire night sky was filled with stars. Watching a few satellites and meteors, my eyes closed shut for the night. We had to get up early in the morning to visit a near by water falls, which Santosh had promised will be heavenly. Waking up at 6 and having a breakfast of upma and rottis (which was made of rice flour) we set off for the falls. It was a trek of almost 2 hours.

Stopping on the way for some brilliant views of the distant arabian sea, we reached the water falls. Here we had to do some rock climbing to reach the base of the falls. The water was pristine and soothing. Having splashed in the water for some time, it was time to head back. We reached the place where we had camped for the night, finished our lunch and boarded the bus back to bangalore. After 8 hours of travel, stopping for Masala Dosas on the way I finally reached my home at 12:30 in the night, drawing curtains for yet another successful and a memorable trek.

Adios till next time.....

- Posted by Bharat Kaushik